Category Archives: Brazilianaire Vol. 2

The 2011 travel adventures of The Brazilianaire

Linguists Unite!

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The Museum of the Portuguese Language in Sao Paulo is quite the unique experience. It’s a museum, the only one of its kind in the world it claims which is dedicated to just one language and its history.

Through the interactive exhibits and the cinematic show which ends up with you walking ‘through’ the screen into another room of projection displays.

Another gallery has a wall of continuous video displays more than a hundred metres long, showcasing different aspects of the words relating to Brazilian culture – football, carnival, food, music, history…

I was lucky with my timing at this museum as there was also a temporary exhibit dedicated to my favourite poet, Fernando Pessoa. His poems once translated into English are still fantastic, but in Portuguese they are truly incredible.

He was quite the philosopher who wrote under a number of heteronyms, or assumed characters, which allowed him to explore life from a number of different perspectives and different voices.

Try a few of his poems out for yourself and see if you like them… Personally I think he is among the world’s finest poets.

http://www.meaningsoflife.com/Poems/Poems-Pessoa.htm

http://fernandopessoa.multiply.com/reviews/item/6

His collection of short observations about life can be found in English as ‘The Book of Disquiet’. It’s my favourite book.

Rio’s Carnival Up In Flames

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Tragedy hit preparations for Carnival in Rio de Janeiro as the City of Samba, where all floats and costumes are housed, went up in flames. More than 120 firefighters raced to the scene, and were able to save 70% of the complex. Three of the ‘schools of samba’ lost their floats and many of their costumes. Portela, União da Ilha and Grande Rio are some of the largest and respected schools of samba. With less than a month to go until the Carnival parade gets underway, this is a significant setback for the three schools. But despite the sadness, all three schools will do what they can to still take part. Many people are donating money to help those affected most. Coming for Carnival? Never fear, the party will still be on, and I’m sure that the three entries from the affected schools will be an emotional thing to witness.

When music transcends…

Thiago

I caught a live music show in Sao Paulo last night, and absolutely loved it.
Thiago Pethit was the main attraction, and he really delivered. His style is unique, but if I had to compare him to anyone, I’d probably say he has Mika-stylings, only Thiago is far more entertaining than Mika.

He sings in Portuguese, English and French, and is quite the talented and animated performer.

He was supported by another local act, Letuce, whose name sounds far more interesting when pronounced in Portuguese, than it does in English… 🙂 I think she was pregnant to the lead guitarist, but this could neither be confirmed or denied… hehehe

I loved it when both Thiago and Letuce sang in English. They had passion, musicality and mostly had their English accents perfected. The pronunciation made me smile, just as it seems to make the locals here smile when I speak with them in Portuguese. It’s those subtle inflections that always give you away as an ‘estrangeiro’ or foreigner…

(Side note: Brazilians have a really difficult time pronouncing the differences between ‘beach’ and ‘bitch’ in English… Also ‘can’t’ and well, you know the other word… It reminds me a little of Air New Zealand’s Rico!  In reverse, I always have trouble ordering bread in Brazil, as one of the words for penis is unfortunately far too similiar for my ear to detect…)

The performance venue, from what I can ascertain, is the performance hall of SESC, a group formed to push the agenda of social education and promote creativity and culture for the past 60 years. It must be working, as the show had a really had a fantastic vibe, and drew a very eclectic crowd of Paulistanas (locals from Sao Paulo).

Anyway it was strange, and comforting at the same time, to hear Lou Reed covers in the middle of this gigantic metropolis that is Sao Paulo. Thanks Thiago for a great show… I thoroughly enjoyed myself!

This moment was just one of the many secrets that the city unlocked for me during this visit. Thanks to Ricardo for lining up the tickets and sharing the experience with me.

Fashion Weak

Unknownname

It’s Fashion Week here in Sao Paulo…

Ashton Kutcher and Demi Moore are making appearances, mostly at the airport and at private parties – not so much on the main streets of Sao Paulo…

Fashion Week seems to happen largely behind closed doors here in the city. Only the elite, the fashionistas and the chosen can enter.

I’m clearly not one of any of the above! I’m what you might call Fashion Weak… wearing the simple attire of jeans and a tee, standard fare for backpackers.

Foreigners without exclusive VIP passes to Fashion Week, can at the very least take solace in that the week is referred to locally in English. (English must be fashionable or something…)

I made the mistake of translating ‘fashion week’ into its portuguese equivalent ‘semana de moda’ and was faced with strange stares and a few quiet laughs or two…

Sao Paulo – City of Secrets

Adam

I must admit that I forgot how at odds with itself, Sao Paulo can first appear to be to a foreigner… It’s a city of the very rich living alongside the extremely poor. At every turn, a new neighbourhood or ‘bairro’ each with something unique to offer – whether shocking or exciting.

From the rich streets of Jardins, where Cartier & Gucci abound, to the bustling side streets of the former red light district near Rua Augusta, to the Japanese influences of Liberdade or the historic Centro – each is unique. Then again there are other streets altogether that I just don’t feel like entering.

This is a city of secrets. Its beauty has to be found, it is not apparent from the outset. It starts with the drive in from the airport, through some of the poorer neighbourhoods of the city outskirts… it’s unsettling for the foreigner to see as a first sight, but the city is yet to reveal its beauty.

Keep in mind that this city and its wider metropolis contains tens of millions of people, almost the same amount of people in this one city as in all of Australia, so there is bound to be a clash of the classes as these masses of people congregate together.

It’s a city that can frustrate, confuse and confound, but more more awaits for the traveller with patience, and a sense of humour. Incredible art, food, culture and friends can be found in some of the most unlikeliest places.

To unlock this city’s secrets, you need to be open-minded and up for the challenge, but once you start unlocking them, you’ll find that Sao Paulo will take a place of pride within your heart.

Sao Paulo, eu te amo!

All good things pass through The Mouth

Laboca

While on foot, the dullness of grey walls and crumbling facades slowly give way to colour, both vibrant and garishly beautiful. The sounds of bustling suburban streets gives way to the sounds of tango, accordions, drums and the incessant click of a million cameras capturing all.

You’ve reached, La Boca – ‘the mouth’, the heart and birthplace of tango in Argentina.
Although named because of its location at the mouth of the river, it could just as easily owe its name to the entrance of one of the most revered of the senses – taste.

The senses are truly delighted by the music, the colour and the spectacle of La Boca. Yes, it’s a haven for tourists and it’s changed the nature of the area somewhat, but there are still small pockets of delight for even the most tourist-weary traveler.

It has its allure. Come, relax, sit back with a fine glass of Malbec, and drink in the show.

I recommend avoiding the tourist buses. Take a fairly short walk from San Telmo down through the back streets of La Boca to see the other side of this ‘barrio’ (neighbourhood).

Check out some of the other photos from La Boca in the gallery

Muerte y Gloria

Recoleta

Death and Glory… never captured quite like in the mausoleums of Cementerio de la Recoleta.
Inside the cemetery lies row after row of memories, chronicling the lives, histories and accomplishments of the dearly departed.

Some graves are bedecked with ornate designs of varying architectural styles, while others are simple granite stone memorials.

But the size and shape of the mausoleum, no matter how grandiose, does not signifiy the importance of those housed within.

In one of the simplest abodes, lies the revered Eva Peron, or ‘Evita’, Little Eva.
Forget Madonna, this woman captured the hearts of many of the local ‘Porteños’. Starting from humble beginnings, she went on to become an outspoken first lady of Argentina, marrying the President Juan Peron. She won the respect of many, for her tireless campaigning on behalf of the poor and for the rights of women. Unfortunately her tale is a sad one, as the military didn’t agree with the dictatorial style of her husband and staged a coup.

She was just 33, the same age as me now, when she passed away from cancer.

If you get the chance, definitely head to this famous cemetery in Recoleta, Buenos Aires for a few hours of reflection and respect.

Check out more photos online at the 2011 gallery

On waking in Buenos Aires

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It’s about the third day of travel when it sets in…

It’s 8 in the morning, and your body is tangled in the sheets. It’s hot, humid and your body is covered in a fine sheen of sweat. The fan above circles noisily and lazily, providing a small sense of relief from the heat.

Before that moment when your eyes open, the heat and sweat can be an annoyance, until you open your ears and hear it…

…the sounds of a city vastly different from your own. Dogs are barking while a man shouts at his wife or girlfriend from the street below to open the door. An accordion is playing above the sounds of broken Spanish phrases and the shuffle of buses on cobbled streets all merge and dance around your eyes.

That’s when it sets in… the deep realisation that you have nothing that you have to do, nowhere that you have to go, no one that you have to see. It´s relaxing to realise you are the master of all the choices that the day will place in front of you.

Check out my photos online at the Argentina gallery

Australia Day… again

Adam

Some people said I wasn´t very Australian to leave on Australia Day, but as far as I´m concerned it´s far from the truth. I love Australia Day so much that I will fly around the world to get two of them if I have to… so I did!So after a fairly normal twelve hour flight, I land in Buenos Aires to the dawn of the same day again. Brilliant!

I don´t know why, but I always picture a disaster happening when I fly. Morbid huh? Maybe it was after witnessing the plane crash in Toronto back in 2005. Anyway, I´m on the plane and I´m picturing me trying to sleep with the strangely distracting smell of hot chocolate being served around, and I dream that someone goes up to the window at the overwing exit. They lean on the door and accidentally open it up. Cups of hot chocolate go screaming out the gaping hole in the side of the plane and everyone starts grasping for the oxygen masks as they fall from above.

Now, I know that the doors are protected against accidental openings such as the one described above, but still I have these dreams while I´m on board. It probably doesn´t help that I´ve also just finished a seasons of Fringe, which features a few plane disasters throughout its plot of twisted science. Next time I´m taking sleeping pills…

Window or Aisle? I´m still on the fence as to which I prefer for long distance flights. I think I´m more of an aisle man, because I hate disturbing or waking up someone else to get up to go the loo, but then again, it´s much harder to sleep in the aisle seat.

Which do you prefer?

Ten Brazilian Timeouts from the Brazilianaire

You’re at work aren’t you, and you’ve been YouTubing again… I can tell by the glazed sparkle in your eyes. Well don’t despair, this highly researched list of ten of my fave Brazilian themed clips online will pep you up. If you’ve seen another you like better, send it through in the comments!

#1 Favelas/Equality… This is Michael Jackson’s music video for “They don’t really care about us”, shot on location in Rio de Janeiro, Salvador and a few other hot spots around Brazil. The songs topic addresses the vast divide between rich and poor, which in Brazil is widely considered to be its main domestic challenge

#2 Samba… even the toddlers are outdoing me on this front. I have to skill up pretty quickly so I don’t get stomped on during Carnival

#3 Carnival… You’ll never look at a street party in the same light again afterwards… 2010

and a bonus clip of our Jen in Rio‘05

#4 Rhythm… You can get it in a tram, you can get it on the streets, matter of fact I got it now… 

#5 Brazilian Waxing… You can wax any part you want to in Brazil. It’s just called a wax there… The good news is, no visa is needed to experience a Brazilian wax…

#6 The Boys from Ipanema… Distractions aplenty on the beaches of Ipanema… Need I say more…

#7 Portuguese… such a beautiful romantic language, except perhaps when you get your maid to try and spell out YouTube’s web address in Brazil. 

#8 Football… whether it’s the emotional ankle injuries for the refs, or even the emotional shows from the refs, football is about 95% performance

#9 Football Passion… if you think the fans go a little nuts for football, then wait ‘til you see the commentators!

 And finally… #10 Churrasco… Bring on the Meat Sweats! If the meat doesn’t get you drooling, at least the dancing tomato clip art kitsch will get you grooving

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