Category Archives: Brazilianaire Vol. 1
The 2004-2005 travel adventures of The Brazilianaire
Adam and Yves in Paradise
Adam and Yves settling in at the West Port Cottages
Ah Jamaica… From South America to the Carribean, it was a cultural adjustment to be sure!
I headed out to Negril, a seven mile stretch of beach on the west coast of Jamaica. Up one end are the crazily expensive hotels and resorts and then there’s the other end where I chose to reside.
The West Port Cottages are wonderfully held together by its owner, Joseph. Joseph works hard patching up the roofs during the day and afterwards he mows the grass and then I think he puts it into little cigarette papers to smoke away the early evening.
At dinner time, he happily invites all of the backpacker-type guests to watch a video. The video itself is quite interesting until about the last half an hour when Joseph gets a visitor and they start yelling yarns to each other in the nearby room. It’s not such a bad thing as even the dullest drama can become the most fascinating comedy, as Joseph and his friend provide an interesting diversion from the script.
Upon arrival I met my neighbour, who was a Frenchman visiting Jamaica for his fifth or possibly sixth time. His name was Yves (pronounced similiar to Eve). So when people arrived at the place they were introduced to, you guessed it, Adam and Yves… But it all ended up well. I convinced him not to eat from the Fridge of the Knowledge of Good and Evil and we were not evicted from our lodgings in the nude.
Travelers Tips:
Jamaica uses both US and Jamaican dollars. In tourist locations, it may be easier to simply use US dollars.
Buses from Montego Bay to Negril… can cost from $10USD up to $50 depending upon who you speak to. The Tourist Information Office in Montego Bay has rates at $25USD but if you hang around with your backpack near the Juta Tours area a little further up the ‘Hip Street’ you can jump on a bus at the last minute and possibly bargain them down to $10…
Hustle-city…! Expect to be stopped in the street or on the beach by people trying to sell you small items or their story! Follow some simple common-sense rules to avoid potential trouble from the more advanced hustlers.
– Never accept or hold anything from someone else. Hustlers can use your acceptance of the item to coerce you into paying for it.
– Don’t stop walking if you are heading in a direction. Acknowledge the person but continue on your journey. In Jamaica it is common to use phrases like, “Respect mon!” or “Everything’s irie”.
– Don’t follow someone outside of a populated area unless you are sure about where you are going to.
– Feel free to bargain for a better price. You have the money, so you are the one to close the deal.
West Port Cottages at Negril are the cheaper accommodation options in town. What they lack in services and style, they make up for in personality and friendliness. Also has an excellent kitchen with enough plates to feed an army.
The Great Machu Picchu Spew
The sun rushes in over the majestic peak of Waynupicchu
3.20 AM – Alarm clock sounds and five adventurers stir from a minimal slumber. Bronwyn, Rachel, Joe, Robin and the Brazilianaire get up and in a surge of solidarity, head out into the cold of night. With a fetching orange beanie and this season’s trend of jeans tucked into large woolen socks, the Brazilianaire trudges onwards, $2 flashlight in hand (Thanks Dad!)
Breathing comes hard and fast with the altitude squeezing the lungs of the five adventurers, but after an hour and a half of persistence, the climb is over and the group face a brief wait until the park is opened.
The Brazilianire, having had a dose of bad bus stop food the day before, eats a bite of energy bar and empties his stomach out onto the nearby road. He remembers thankfully that he has TicTacs and removes the odour in seconds. This was Machu Picchu. One of the worlds great wonders. Nothing could spoil this day…
Sunlight rushed in over the valley and began to reveal more detail of these Incan ruins. Finding a secluded rock a little off the general path, I sat down to take in the sight and contemplate life. After that it was a further climb up to Waynupicchu up the sinister stairs of death, through the tunnel of dusty doom, and on to the peak of peril. The view is something completely indescribable, but the feeling of descending is rather fear-filled. The stairs are so thin without handrails and you are literally walking alongside a considerable drop. Many people were having panic attacks on the way down and rightfully so.
Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail is apparently sinking at the rate of 1 cm per month due to the tourist traffic. The Peruvian government may need to take further steps to reduce the numbers of tourists making it harder to get into Machu Picchu. If you have the chance to go to Machu Picchu in the next few years, grab it! But don’t forget to plan your trip well. To walk the Inca Trail, you will need to book 3 months in advance during the peak season.
Travelers Tips:
To get to Machu Picchu there are some cheaper alternatives than just catching the train from Cuzco to Agua Calientes. Firstly, you will need to go to the train station in Cuzco to buy the return train ticket from Ollantaytambo to Agua Calientes (about $40 USD). The ticket needs to be bought a day before you plan to go to Agua Calientes. On the day of your travel catch two local buses Cuzco – Urubamba and then Urabamba – Ollantaytambo. These cost almost $2 US in total
Another cheap alternative is to walk the train tracks from Ollantaytambo to Agua Calientes as apparently this is possible.
Get up at around 4 am to climb up to Machu Picchu in time to enter the park when it opens. You will need a flashlight and some spare batteries.
Over the Rainbow
And behind me… the ‘Sexy Woman’ ruins near Cuzco, Peru
Cuzco – its cobbled streets are lined with children bearing hand-crafted finger puppets for you to buy. Its restaurants are filled with sizzling alpaca steaks and cute but roasted guinea pig fillets. And every building in Cuzco flies a rainbow flag with pride.
But it’s not gay pride, its the pride of the Incas! The Cuzco people have proven to be more open minded than the gay community when it comes to their rainbow flag. Whereas the gay community instantly excluded the offsetting light blue tone, the Cuzco people opened their arms in acceptance of our pale coloured friend and allowed a seventh stripe to deck their flag.*
This also helps the local light blue wool industry and has proven to be a sound business move for Cuzco. So next time you see a parade of rainbows, don’t jump to conclusions… it may be the Incans.
*Colour information confirmed by Newtown retail worker who decorates her shop each year for Mardi Gras… Thanks Bronny!
Travelers Tips:
The CUZCO visitor ticket gets you into a number of the ruins and museums around the area (but not including Machu Pichu!). The discount rates for students are VERY attractive, so either invest in a fake or bring your own from home so that you can still afford to eat on your travels…
Bronny also recommends waiting around at night near the main plaza for lots of free drink coupons at each of the clubs.
You can negotiate the price of your meal. In Gringo alley, hear what the different restaurant operators have to offer and then make them a deal. You can get up to 50% discounts at times or have desserts and entrees thrown in for free!
Legs 11 Lima
Shopping with a view in Miraflores, Peru
After driving myself crazy in Santiago, I decided that my foot had gotten better to continue my travels, so it was on to Lima, Peru. Talk about an intimidating arrival! Picture coming through customs and out through the small door to be faced with a wall of hundreds of faces all staring in your direction, name boards in hand waiting for someone just like you.
Ever been waiting for a taxi for a while in Sydney? This is IMPOSSIBLE in Lima. Just about one in every seven cars in Lima is a taxi. Apparently you can just go and buy a taxi sign at the local hardware, so anyone can be a driver! The best part is you get to set the price and bargain a taxi driver down. He says 10, you say 6. He says 7, you start to show a slight interest but then begin looking down the street for the next taxi. He hesitatingly says 6 and you’re in the cab and on your way!
The foot didn’t get all that much better, so it was back to the doctors for a different opinion. I had to stay in the same suburb of Lima for another two long weeks.
Funniest things I encountered in Lima:
– The waitress who takes your order and then rushes to the neighbouring restaurant to return with your meal…
– The taxi driver who pulls up outside your cafe midway through your meal and asks if you needed a taxi…
– The tourist restaurant street where as you’re walking down the strip, a feisty young waitress jumps in front of your path and asks you if you’re having the fish or the pasta…
– The street hawker of increasing evils. He asks you if you want tattoos, then pirated dvd’s, then girls, then marijuana, then cocaine. Talk about an investment portfolio!
Travelers Tips:
When arriving in Lima, if you don’t have a lot of luggage, go out the front door of the airport terminal and turn right and head out onto the main street. You can pick up taxis there that are three times cheaper than inside the terminal. A typical fare to Miraflores can cost between 20-30 Soles and you are expected to negotiate your price. But be wary – there are LOTS of taxi hustlers.
Welcome to the Hostel Bellavista
Me and fellow Bellavistian, Ansa, chilling out in Santiago
I soon changed hostels to one in a better location and that seemed to have a bit more ‘community spirit’. I met heaps of Aussies, Kiwis, Germans, Brits, Swedes, Mexicans and just about all the other nationalities of the UN. From the dry wit of Chris the tour guide who would often be found skiing down the stairs on an ironing board, to the delightful dance routines of Sole – this place had some spirit to it.
On my third day here I woke up to find that my left foot was red and swollen just under the arch and was quite painful when I stepped on it. I went to the doctor’s and went straight on some antihistamines for a possible insect bite. I found that for the next few weeks I was only able to walk for about 20 minutes at a time before my foot became too painful to bear. Am I the luckiest traveller or what? But the Bellavistians looked after me well, helping me find English speaking doctors, and helping me to get around in my limited capacity. I ended up staying there for 2 weeks waiting for my foot to get better.
Travelers Tips:
Check out the Bellavista Hostel online at Hostelworld.com. It was my favourite hostel in all of South America!
When arriving in Santiago, check out the TRANSVIP shuttle service located inside the airport terminal. It’s cheaper than a taxi, and takes you direct to your lodging.
Don’t trust just any taxi at the airport or bus station. I heard and met many people who had been ‘stung’ or robbed by taxi drivers at these places. In other areas of Santiago, it did not seem to be a problem.
If catching buses to other cities, there are two bus terminals, the cheaper bus terminal is located across the road from the terminal next to the Universidad de Santiago metro station. Save up to 50% just by crossing the street!
Sleepless in Santiago
Christian, myself and Evelin at the Cafe in Bellas Artes, Santiago
I stumbled from the plane and onto the tarmack at the Santiago airport. The snow on the surrounding Andes mountains were doing their bit to chill me through. It was early afternoon, so I checked into my hostel and thought about sleeping as I’d stayed out all night in Rio and hadn’t quite managed to sleep on the plane. But after unpacking my gear, I felt a slight surge of energy that saw me walking out the door and down the street for a bit of a wander. That wander led me to a cafe with warm lights, steaming coffee and internet access.
Walking inside I used my Portuguese to speak with the waitress there and order a coffee. She asked if I was Brazilian and soon we were talking about our shared passion for Brazil. Thankfully her English was better than my Spanish, and we managed quite well to compare notes about samba and all things Brazilian. Evelin’s friends arrived at the cafe and soon I found myself surrounded by the friendliest Chileans in Chile. It’s not often you walk into a cafe and then walk out 8 hours later! We went out for dinner and then ended up going to a club to hear some great electronic music and attempt a dance or two. 44 hours after my last nap, I finally returned to my hostel bed just as the sun’s rays began to warm the icy streets of the city. What a welcome, and it was perfect to take my mind off my post-Brazil depression.
Travelers Tips:
Go to the cafe across the street from the Bella Artes metro station in Santiago, for the BEST coffee. If you see Evelin, give her a hug and say the Brazilianaire sent you!
Highlights in Santiago: The park called Santa Lucia, Daytrips to Valparaiso and Vina del Mar.
The Floripa Streaker
Just before my streak at Praia das Galhetas
Florianopolis, or ‘Floripa’ as the trendy Brazilians call it, is a city that doesn’t know which side of the fence it is on. Half the city is on the mainland of Brazil and the other half is on the island of Santa Catarina.
The keyword here is beaches. There’s beaches for surfers, beaches for people who are 20-30, beaches for wave-lappers, beaches for tanners and finally – beaches for nudists.
What better way to leave Brazil than with a truly consolidated tan, right?
So one sunny morning I found myself lying face down grabbing some rays feeling all liberated.
(No wise cracks about sand in uncomfortable places ok… after all, a wise crack stays covered!)
There may … uh hmmmm … be a photo around somewhere…
Falling for Foz
Foz de Iguaçu – over 275 waterfalls all in one glorious place
From Salvador the Brazilianaire decided to catch a plane down to the south of Brazil to visit its world-famous waterfalls. The Foz de Iguacu is an impressive set of waterfalls that hug the Brazilian and Argentinean border. Most tourists are hard up trying to decide which side is better, but each has its advantages. The Argentinean side gives you a great close-up experience of a number of the falls, some decent boat-rides and the chance to lose about 5kg from the day of walking. The Brazilian side shows you the full picture of the falls and you get a better idea of how impressive it is, as well as the chance to get REALLY wet with a boatride into the largest part of the falls.
At Foz de Iguacu I met two couples who were really cool – Angie (Peru) and Aidan (Australia), and Alex and Jack (both from the UK). I ended up travelling on further with Angie and Aidan and we shared an apartment at our next stop in Florianopolis.
Travelers Tips:
Stay at the Paudimar Campestre just outside of town for a great youth hostel with a good atmosphere! Discounts for Hostelling International members…
Surprised by Salvador
Pelourinho, Salvador
Salvador… I hated the place to begin with but loved it by the time I had to leave. The charm was slow to grow as it was constantly raining and the endless requests for money got to even the most patient traveller. But on my last night in Salvador I met a cool 12 year old kid called Jefferson who after trying to sell me peanuts, decided to stick around and chat. After a while he asked if he could have 1 Real (50c AUD) for a hotdog. Not one to deprive anyone of their mustard or ketchup intake, I obliged. He returned with hotdog in hand and a grin on his cheeky face. After offering me a bite, he sat down to become my tour guide for the rest of the night. Dancing along with the other backpackers at my table, he took us round to show us the best places to dance a little samba and hear some great music… and I left Salvador a musically satisfied man.
One other thing in Salvador that I should explain is the ribbons or ‘fitas’ from the famous ‘Senhor do Bonfim’ church. People buy them at the church as presents of good fortune for others. The different coloured ribbons are then tied around someone’s leg or arm with three reef-knots. As each reef-knot is tied, you have to make a wish. Once tied to your wrist or ankle, you must let the band fall off by natural means. They last anytime from 1 month up to 2 years according to the stories from other travellers. Mine has been on my arm now for almost 2 months and it’s not too stinky yet although it has gone rather stiff and is losing its colour.
The Coast of Discovery
Arraial d’Ajuda – a great place to relax!
Ahhhhh… Bahia. Home of spicy food, capoeira and Afro-brazilian rhythms. I kicked off this adventure with historic Porto Seguro – the coastal city where Brazil was first discovered by the Portuguese over 500 years ago.
The first night there I had a great experience with a local tattoo artist who approached me to draw a henna tattoo on my arm. My greeting included a firm reminder that I did not want a tattoo and also that I had next to no money. He continued to talk and then next thing I know he started drawing a tattoo on my arm. Now he was fairly interesting and was pretty funny so I let him continue, reminding him that I didn’t want one, but thinking maybe I could give him a few Brazilian Reais for the effort. After completing a fairly large and impressive tattoo on my arm he tried to convince me that the tattoo was worth about 150 Reais ($75 AUD) but that he would give it to me for 130 because I was a nice guy. Laughing hysterically I told him he should go back and learn basic portuguese as I had said I had next to no money and didn’t want a tattoo to begin with.
His response to this revelation was interesting, as he whistled for his 6’2″ amigo to come over. Having a whole inch more in height but considerably less in the muscle department I still kept up the banter, “And you are?”. The “tatt” artist explained the non-payment situation to which I added a basic reminder of how business transactions operate in 99% of the world. The artist tried to get a bit desperate then saying that he needed to pay his slightly over-beefed friend for the tattoo. Pondering what it must be like to be a henna tattoo pimp, I laughed again, gave him 10 Reais ($5 AUD) and bid him and his tattoo pimp a good night.
After that I headed to nearby Arraial d’Ajuda where amongst other things I encountered the very man who supposedly created the Lambada dance craze of the 80’s. There’s a bit of contention between Bolivia and Brazil about who created the dance, but seeing as the word ‘lambada’ is a portuguese word, I tend to believe the Brazilians. I originally thought the lambada was from Mexico or something, but after seeing the locals dance in Arraial d’Ajuda, I am without doubt that it began in Brazil.
Arraial d’Ajuda is a beachside village of hippies and tourists who come together at the beach to play and frolic in the calm waters. Picture hundreds of people all playing sports, drinking and grabbing that tan. Then move 3 km down the beach and you are standing on an isolated stretch of coast where one or two people are practicing capoeira on the sand, and the others are strolling about aimlessly, but content. You choose the type of beach you want and then spend the next few hours lapping it up. I stayed for a week…
Tales of The Brazilianaire 